Foothill Flavors

Talulah’s is a legend in the making

By Antoinette May Herndon

People are talking about Talulah’s. “What you haven’t been there!” “The food is absolutely marvelous.” “The style so San Francisco.”

After so much boundless enthusiasm seemingly from all directions, you better believe I was curious. I turned to a voice on high, Google, the final authority, and found still more raves. There were ecstatic accounts of birthday dinners, perfect business lunches, and anniversary soirées. I read accolades from both passing tourists and Sonora regulars.

Apparently, within a relatively short time the downtown eatery with an upscale reputation has become Tuolumne County’s favorite “in” spot. Naturally, Charles and I were anxious to sample this gem for ourselves.

One evening while driving home from a seaside holiday, we thought of Tallulah’s. It was early but we were hungry. Why not? We left the freeway, cutting eastward on Hwy 120. Within minutes, there we were in the middle of lively downtown Sonora.

But that was only the beginning. The one thing we knew, the only thing, was that Talulah’s is popular. We didn’t have a reservation. To make things even dicier, it was a Saturday night. But it was also early. Fortunately, we had that going for us. Fingers crossed, we entered the tiny but tasteful bistro.

Though it was only 5:30, two tables were already occupied. Within a half an hour every table was taken. The place was packed and we very fortunate to be seated.

I liked the ambience right away. The restaurant fronts

on main street (only in this case it happens to be Washington street.) One wall is used brick. Historic bricks, I’m sure. The opposite wall is a gallery of modern eclectic paintings against a hot yellow background. Behind us was the busy galley-style kitchen. There are possibly 12 tables, the effect intimate and inviting.

Talulah’s owner, Katharine Payne, is both a dreamer and a realist. While attending the Culinary Program at Columbia College, she became—in her own words—obsessed with the idea of delighting people with her own gastronomic vision. Talulah’s is the successful culmination of that dream.

Katharine’s partner, chef extraordinaire Rodney Benedetto, has shared his culinary talents with presidents Jimmy Carter and Gerald Ford since receiving certification from the University of Texas at Arlington.

Both Katharine and Rodney are dedicated to the idea of using only the freshest ingredients and use locally grown products at every opportunity. All the house-made dressings and famous bread drizzle are made with Rancho Torales Olive Oil. The olives are grown just up the road.

Katharine is most likely to seat you herself and you can expect Rodney to come out at some point to see how your like your meal. The waitresses are smart, New Yorky looking in their black tailored outfits. Everyone of them is pretty. We were specially fortunate in having Malory Russell for our server. Her suggestions were knowledgeable, such as selecting the perfect wine for us. (Karly Zinfandel, 2006.)

The bread is already buttered but wait until you’ve dipped it in

that famous olive oil. So good, so sinful. For a starter, Charles had a bay shrimp cocktail with Katharine’s traditional sauce ($6.) Delicious, but my choice was even more fabulous. When I heard the soup of the day was Portobello mushroom, I wasn’t satisfied with just a cup. I had to have a whole bowl. ($6)

The main event for Charles was the house-made vegetable lasagna. Imagine: eggplant, portabella mushrooms, zucchini, red peppers, all roasted and layered with ricotta cheese, a béchamel sauce and topped with house made marinara. ($14) It may have been the best vegetarian dish I’ve ever tasted. Yes, this was one of our rare sharing evenings and I took full advantage.

My own choice was great too. Boneless pork ribs. ($15) The rib s were slow cooked with bourbon and apricot sauce served with potato “planks”and fresh, succulent veggies.

Ok now, I’m crawling out on a limb. I’m even going to make one last 2010 prediction. If you haven’t already been to Talulah’s, you’re going to go there soon. Then you’ll go back again. And again. It’s that kind of place. You’re going to love it. And very soon you, too, will be talking about Talulah’s

VITALS: Talulah’s is located at 13 South Washington in Sonora. Phone: 532-7278. The restaurant is open Tuesday through Friday for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and dinner from 5 to 8:30. The restaurant is open from l pm to 9 on Saturday. Closed Sunday and Monday. Reservations definitely advised. Credit cards accepted.

PICTURES

Malory Russell is among the excellent wait staff at Talulah’s.