Beans Brew in Amador
Sierra Lodestar 05/12/10

COFFEE MATTERS IN AMADOR COUNTY By Antoinette May Herndon

Coffee can be such a big deal to people. Back in 1475 a Turkish woman could divorce her husband if he didn’t supply her with enough of it. So, it’s not too surprising that Kiva Han, the world’s first coffee house, opened its doors in Constantinople (now Istanbul) that very year.

It’s easy to see why the idea caught on, turned global and remains so popular.

But what really makes for a great coffee house?

The coffee you say? Au contrair! That’s way too easy an answer.

The dark brown liquid that various establishments pour is merely the beginning. Think about it. The true coffee house draw is ambience: the air of vibrancy, the exciting buzz that instantly telegraphs that this is a happening place, a center where one can settle in to explore and expound on books, art, personalities and politics.

Conversation is the true magnet not the coffee itself. Whether you yourself are contributing to the lively debates going on all around you or merely eavesdropping, a great coffee house remains a place to see and be seen.

Just let me describe my five favorites in Amador County.

When I think of coffee houses anywhere, Clark’s Corner at 12 Main St. in tiny Ione stands out as one of the greats. This is a class act operation that might have been plucked from North Beach, Fleet Street, the Village or the Left Bank. Clark’s Corner is a happening place where issues are debated, deals struck, reputations made or perhaps unmade.

It’s a place where you can go to talk about the latest novel you’ve read or perhaps find a corner to work on your own. After that you can even share your creativity with a literati audience. Clark’s Corner actually has a stage where artists of all kinds perform.

Besides readings, there’s a story hour on Tuesday, a Christian music gig on Sunday, and wine time Friday evenings from six to eight. But possibly Clark’s Corner’s most appealing feature is the wireless access that keeps the coffee guzzler in touch with stock commodities, political tallies and that perennial biggie: personal relationships.

In big, coffee driven Seattle they have a name for people like Kenny Clark. The coffee house staffs that create those flavorful espressos, lattes, Americanos and cappuccinos are known as baristas. Kenny is a great barista. (Just try one of his lattes.) He’s also proud of all the ongoing activities that unfold at Clark’s Corner. You can call him at 274-2233 for details. Hours there are Sunday through Thursday from 5 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Thomi’s Coffee and Eatery at 40 Hanford in Sutter Creek is a tiny window on the world, a leafy grotto that faces out on historic Highway 49. While sipping a mocha it’s fun to enjoy things as they are while imagining them as they used to be. Gold barons, fancy ladies, gamblers, dudes and desperados.

From the coffee house’s leafy grotto one can easily envision stage coaches rounding the bend, gold panners in the creek and newly rich miners gambling away their nuggets in rinky-dink saloons. This corner overlooking clapboard and brick buildings reaches back more than 150 years to a lively history.

Frank and Thomi Manzano make certain that the pace is easy at Thomi’s, perfect for either people- watching or daydreaming. Sutter Creek’s cozy corner is a place for lingering. One could write a novel there. Who knows, maybe one day I will. In the meantime, Thomi’s has a wide variety of lattes, cappuccinos, and espressos.

Phone: 267-1108. Hours 8 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.

Just down the street at 74 Main is Back Roads yet another special care coffee house. Marie Mennell’s place has two venues. In the front room people can sip their espressos while watching the world go by on Sutter Creek’s bustling Main Street. In the tiny tucked away back room they enjoy a cozy retreat in which to read or connect with their own private internet world.

Marie serves cappuccinos, lattes, mochas and espressos, but will vary the caloric intake to suit her customers. The milk content varies all the way from 2 percent to heavy cream.

Marie Mennell makes a cool sandwich too. Home roasted tri tips, turkey and chicken breasts are real treats. Smoothies are a special feature as well. My own personal favorite is the espresso shake.

With warm weather finally here, Italian sodas are also much in demand. Marie does a neat variation. In addition to the club soda and syrup, she floats cream on the top. It tastes every bit as refreshing as it looks.

Back Roads is open weekdays from 7:30 a.m. until 5 p.m. and weekends from 8 to 5. On Saturdays musicians often drop by for informal jam sessions. Call Marie at 267-0440.

Andrae’s, located in the smallest incorporated city in California— Amador City—is a legend in its own time as a bakery. Products are made from scratch there and baked fresh daily using only natural ingredients with no additives.

This marvelous place also qualifies as a coffee house of sorts. Why not, the coffee selection is as superb as the bread offerings: fresh roasted, mocha, cappuccino, and espresso.

The bakery itself is teeny-weeny, but

there’s a delightful front deck facing out on historic Highway 49. Its view is scenic and, like Thomi’s in Sutter Creek, has a nostalgic sense of the bygone days of yesteryear. Still, to my mind, the best seating is on the narrow foot bridge at the backdoor of the building.

How sweet it is to sit at a small canopied table listening to the sounds of the babbling brook below. Some day I’m going to spend a whole day there with a good book. Imagine drinking iced latte, nibbling Andrae’s delicious breads and cheeses . . . If that isn’t enough, consider the fresh cookies and famous Basque cake—a heavy pond cake studded with walnuts and dusted with powdered sugar. It’s perfect with coffee but then so are Andrae’s fresh made quiches, pizzas and sandwiches.

Andrae’s, founded by Matt and Kimberly Andrae, is celebrating its tenth year. Located at 14141 Highway 49, Amador City, the bakery -coffee house is open Thursday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. The phone number is 267-1352.

The newest kid on the coffee house block is Café de Coco located at 140 Main St. in Jackson. After only being open six months, Café de Coco has already become a center where people come to gossip, plan and organize. It’s a meeting place, a drop in and chat place, a hub where town folk come to discuss business concerns, upcoming local elections, or national issues.

Proprietor Jesus (Jesse) Espindola and his mother-partner, Coco, have all the big city can’t live without coffees: cappuccino, latte, macchiato, espresso, besides just plain hearty Americano. I particularly favor Jesse’s cappuccino.

It’s fun to watch a new place come in and take hold. Café de Coco has both the quality coffee and the instinctive vitality to become one of the Mother Lode’s great coffee houses. Drop in after 10 a.m. Tuesday through Sunday and see for yourself. . Phone 223-2626.

Pictures:

Everything old is new again at Clark’s Corners.

Kenny Clark pours a great cup of coffee at Clark’s Corners

Thomi’s in Sutter Creek is a Highway 49 landmark.

Thomi’s “grotto” is a great place from which to people watch.

Back Roads has lots of choices.

Back Roads is a warm and friendly coffee house where people naturally gather.

Andrae’s secret treasure is a babbling brook.

Andrae’s features a fabulous variety of exotic cheeses.

The back door approach to Andrae’s takes you across a babbling brook.

Andrae’s balcony is the perfect place for coffee.

Andrae’s famous bakery.

Coffee drinkers at Café de Coco can find a variety of pastries from which to choose.

Café de Coco is loaded with lively original art.

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