Camps: Where the Elite Come to Eat

By Antoinette May Herndon

They mix a mean martini at Camps. That’s important to me because I’m mean too. I’ve been known to send a ‘tini back if it isn’t done just right. Don’t imagine bar tender Donivan Manaka gets many such rejects. He has a deft way of turning juniper berries into pure silk.

The well appointed bar is the first thing one sees upon entering Camps Restaurant at Greenhorn Creek in Angel’s Camp. The building, inspired by the ground-breaking architect Julia Morgan, has an inviting clubhouse atmosphere, a friendly, lively ambience that’s immediately warm and welcoming. Think elegance without pretence. You expect to be well taken care of there and will be.

Though modern in execution with high ceilings and an abundance of natural light, California architect Mark Primack saw to it that Camps doesn’t stray far from its country roots. Like the chimney of the original 1862 ranch home, the restaurant that evolved is built of rhyolite stone cut and chiselled at a local quarry. Tables are made from 230-year-old

wood recycled from an old Pennsylvania barn and the doorways and windows are framed in recovered Douglas fir, dating back to 1910.

The menu, admittedly pricey, offers lots of variety as well as a few budget-friendly specials. On Wednesdays there’s fresh sole for $14,95, on Thursdays half rack ribs and mash also priced at $14.95. Sunday dinner includes a three course dinner for $18.

While dining at Camps on a recent Sunday evening, my guy, Charles went with the three course dinner. He was delighted by a salad of crisp greens, pork loin and veggies followed by a sinful slice of pecan pie. Though Camps has an excellent and extensive wine list, we decided a glass each would do us this time. Charles chose a 2007 Mirassou pinot noir, at $8.

Navigating the varied menu was challenging for me. Everything looked good. Executive chef Vince Beluardo sets a fine table. Meats are hand cut in-house, fish choices are fresh, salads hand-tossed. After much deliberation I went with two old loves: French onion soup, for $5.95, followed roasted

duck breast with truffled risotto and port braised vegetables at $23.95. Both were everything I’d hoped for sparked by a few kicky surprises. An unexpected peppery tang to the duck, an extra zingy richness to the soup. You’re one great cook, Mr. Beluardo. The food at Camps is prepared with skill and more than a little daring. It’s also served by pros who know how to work a room with poise and pizzazz.

Selecting my one glass of wine was a no brainer. Would a woman whose day job involves writing sexy historical novels pick anything other than 2006 Gladiator Syrah? Not likely. At $9, it had decided oomph, just the smooth, silky punch that my sassy, saucy duck needed. Did I long for a second glass? Was Nero an emperor?

Two giant thumbs up for the dinner, the wine, the ambience, and the service.

VITALS: 611 McCauley Rd, Angel’s Camp. (209) 736-8181. Lunch: Wednesday through Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Dinner 5 to 8 p.m. weekdays, weekends until 9. Credit cards accepted. Reservations desirable.

aherndon@sierralodestar.com