Sonora’s Romantic Hideaway

By Antoinette May Herndon

Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano is so romantic! It’s one of those oh, so la mio Italian kind of places where diners twirl the spaghetti slowly, stylistically, around their forks and linger thoughtfully over each sip of carefully selected wine all the while gazing soulfully into each other eyes.

Searching for the perfect venue for a proposal? (Or at the very least a proposition?) Eureka! You’ve found it. Seek no further. Chistopher’s is the place.

Perhaps some of the passion radiates from owner, Chris Segarini, and his lovely dining room manager, Heather Ashton, who have their heads together planning a June moon, honeymoon event.

I’m inclined to think, however, that Christopher’s is one bistro that always an aura of ardour clinging to it. Of course, the setting helps. The Sonora restaurant is located in a 150 year-old-landmark building, once a historic hotel complete with towers, turrets and arches. Still, it’s mostly it’s Chris himself who acts as a kind of magnet drawing a sense of romantic happening to the place. The chef- owner has been living his passion— the creation and preparation of gourmet food—for the past 20 years.

A localite, Chris launched his career at the Culinary Academy in Columbia then went on to hone his skills in Napa and Sonoma. From there, it seemed inevitable that he would wind up in that ultimate foodie mecca, the chef heaven of New Orleans. “I loved the place,” Chris says today. “No question about it, I definitely elevated my game there, but as time passed, the pull to come home and open my own restaurant was just too great.”

Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano will celebrate its third year in June right around the time that Chris and Heather tie the knot. The bistro has been generating raves since its beginning.

On a recent Sunday evening as we pulled up in front of the splendid old hotel that houses the dinery, Charles and I wondered why it had taken us so long to check out the place. We were greeted by soft lights, soft music and a muted décor enhanced by trailing greenery and antique bottles. We arrived at 5:30 expecting the place to be empty. It wasn’t. Several of those couples I mentioned earlier were already leaning into each other.

Our server, Nicole Hurtado, looked like a beguiling pixie in her black Peter Pan outfit, as she showed us to an inviting table facing out on bustling Washington Street. By six Christopher’s was packed—every table taken.

And by that time Charles and I were well into our minestrone. It’s a thick, delicious soup—the kind you always long for at an Italian restaurant but don’t always get— made with fresh zucchini, onions, carrots, celery, tomatoes, basil and pinto beans in a thick vegetable stock. ($2.95)

From there we moved on to a Caesar salad tossed tableside for us. ($7.95) The greens were fresh and crisp, the dressing perfect. To me, a Caesar is not a Caesar without anchovies. Frequently I come up short. Happily, I was not disappointed at Christopher’s. The dressing also contained lemon, red wine vinegar, olive oil, and parmesan cheese. It came garnished with grilled ciabatta.

From then on the choices became more difficult. Charles eventually opted for fettuccini pesto. ($11.95) Imagine toasted pine

nuts and Chinese garlic blended with fresh basil and parmesan cheese tossed with béchamel cream. A pasta to dream for. Chris suggested an Irish Vineyards voigner as an accompaniment. The subtle oak taste was just right.

My own entrée choice was veal picata, thin pounded medallions sauteed with lemon, capers and white wine ($18.95) Delicious—specially when paired with a jammy petit surrah, also from Irish vineyards.

Chris told us that 90% of his wines come from local vineyards which, he believes, are top notch. Future plans, beginning in May, call for specially planned five-course extravaganza dinners combined with “perfect” wines and beers. Chris’s summer menu will feature home- grown vegetables obtained fresh from a new co-op to be launched in the area.

As previously described, Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano is romantic, that it didn’t surprise me a bit to hear that Chris has partnered with a wedding planner to do full scale events. Just a glance at the diners holding hands while listening raptly to each others stories makes it feel inevitable.

VITALS: Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano is at 160 South Washington St., Sonora. Phone: 533-2600. Open from 5:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.,Tuesday through Sunday. Breakfast from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday mornings. Credit cards accepted. Reservations strongly advised.

PICTURES:

Nicole Hurtado is an asset to Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano in Sonora.

Sonora’s Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano seems always to be busy. Christopher’s Ristorante Italiano attracts “Let’s go there” attention right from the start.