Foothill Flavors

Crusco's

By Antoinette May Herndon

It was date night. Charles and I had just come out of the Angels Theatre. We’d seen a good movie and somehow managed to resist the popcorn. There was just one place to go.

The sign as we entered said it all: “THIS IS NOT FAST FOOD.”

We stepped into Crusco’s Ristorante in Angels Camp and immediately felt comforted and cosseted. Crusco’s is a place to relax, unwind and enjoy conversation as well as food.

The atmosphere in the bisto is definitely romantic. Think rich burgundy and plum napery, dark wood chairs and tables, and a mural of Venice on the wall. The music playing in the background is always a mood builder, perfect for the place. Imagine: Italy’s favorite son belting out “My Way,” arias from grand opera, or dreamy mandolins.

I love all that stuff. Crusco’s is so Italian. I just know if there’s a Godfather out there, he’ll set up shop in a back booth at Crusco’s. Each time I go there I scan the dark interior hopefully. Nobody quite matches Marlon Brando or Al Pacino but often there are intriguing possibilities. Seeing a good movie always sets me to imagining plots of my own and Crusco’s is a perfect venue.

The beguiling scent of garlic sets visions of pasta to dancing in my head. I especially like to sit at table by the window. It’s so nice to be on the inside

looking out on a rainy winter night.

Despite the “not fast food” caveat, we found that all our choices arrived at reasonable intervals. Diego Arces, our server was refreshingly pleasant, expert and attentive. And whatta smile! Charles and I started off with a little freshly baked focaccia bread dipped in a nice blend of olive oil and balsamic vinegar. That’s on the house.

I can never resist the Caesar salad at Crusco’s. ($5) I’m certain that it’s the best in three counties. The salad comes—upon request— with anchovies. (For me, a Caesar simply is not a Caesar if it doesn’t have anchovies.) Crusco’s special is fresh, crisp and loaded with parmesan cheese, garlic and homemade croutons.

Does Crusco’s make a great minestrone soup? That’s one of those “is the pope Catholic?” kind of things. Of course, the minestrone is fabulous there. ($6) Thick, creamy with lots of vegetables. One could really make a meal of it.

For an entrée, Charles had the mare e monte ($26), a grilled New York steak topped with garlic prawns. It was well seasoned and cooked exactly as he ordered it

I chose the evening’s special, tortellini stuffed with cod. ($20) It was absolutely delicious. The cod was tender and delicately flavored, the tortellini perfect –not mushy (as is often the case), but creamy with whispers of garlic.

Everything had tasted so delicious up to this point that we went a little

crazy. Charles ordered the crème brulee with a brandy spice flavoring flanked by chocolate ice cream swirl for dessert. ($7). I had the panna cotta, also $7. Perhaps you don’t know what panna cotta is. I didn’t. In any case, Crusco’s concoction is made by simmering cream, milk and sugar together, then mixing it with gelatin and allowing it to cool. I’d say it was sinfully good.

Crusco’s does not serve cocktails but their wine list is diverse and affordable. We had the house red which turned out to be a delicious Italian merlot.

The family owned Crusco’s Ristorante has been in business for 14 years. Gil Lusher is a genial host, his wife Celeste (Crusco) Lusher is in the kitchen much of the time, but comes out to visit as often as she can. The couple’s pride in, and attention to detail, whether it be food, service or ambience, is obvious. “We make everything here is from scratch,” Celeste told me. “If we can’t make it on the premises, it comes from one of a local organic farm or artisan vendor.”

VITALS: Crusco’s Ristorante, 1240 South Main. Phone: 736-1400. Open Thursday through Mondays for lunch from 11:30 to 3, for dinner from 5 p.m. until 9. Reservations advised. Credit cards accepted.

Pictures

Diego Arces is an attentive server at Crusco’s Ristorante in Angels Camp.

Pasta reigns supreme at Crusco’s Ristorante in Angels Camp.