Foothill Flavors

Highlight Restaurants of 2012
by Antoinette Herndon

When I was a little girl, my mother sometimes fix something to eat that seemed to take an inordinate amount of time to prepare. She’d look pleased with herself when she finally brought it to the table. The family story is that I would often take one bite say, “Oh, that’s awfully good, Mommie. Do we have to have it again?”

Clearly I have always known what I like and what I don’t like. There are no masochistic qualities to my nature of which I’m aware. If I’m disappointed in a bistro; but think there’s room for improvement, I’ll say so in a column.

The ones we like, my husband, Charles, and I go to often and I frequently write about the innovations and modifications they make.

So, it always surprises me when readers ask or email questions like: Do you really like the Leger or Frank’s really your favorite place for breakfast? Well, sure, I wouldn’t say so if they weren’t.

It really is hard, though to define an absolute favorite. Do you have a favorite friend, country, book, movie? Maybe, but don’t those feelings alter from time to time? It’s been said about friends that they enter our lives for a reason, a season or a lifetime. Perhaps the same can be true of restaurants.

As the year draws to a close, I’m going to share my 2012 favorites and the reasons behind those choices

First off, I wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t list Mokelumne Hill’s Leger Hotel as my all time favorite restaurant. For a resident of Mok, the Leger is the town living room. It’s where Mok Hillians go to make certain we’re in the

loop, town-wise.

I love the Leger’s old bar, a true Mother Lode survivor, dark mahogany, stained glass back drop. Sean and Mike are great bar tenders. Desiree, the main server, is an angel in leggings. It worth visiting the hotel just to check out Desiree’s colorful costumes.

My favorite place to eat— weather permitting—is the hotel’s balcony. After ten years, it still seems romantic. I like dining in the hotel’s historic dungeon too. What a place for a dinner party! The Leger now has an excellent chef in Chuck Swisher. I like everything Chuck cooks but the salmon is a perennial favorite and I always love his innovative and delicious soups.

When it comes to a favorite Italian cuisine, there’s no contest for me. I love Giannini’s in Pine Grove. Clearly the Giannini clan’s warm generational ties bind the family business. There’s a wonderful sense of history behind the nearly 80 year old enterprise originally opened by Al Sr. and his wife, Rosalie.

Here’s a caveat, don’t go to Giannini’s if you aren’t hungry. Their deluxe dinner is a five-course no hold barred event. It begins with the famous polenta board—Italian corn meal covered with meat and tomato sauce. The salad is crisp, an excellent foil to the full bodied minestrone soup. Pasta, Giannini’s signature dish, is awesome there, but then so is the Steak Romana.

Giannini’s also offers some interesting and delicious) items rarely seen this side of North Beach like chicken livers sauté and sweetbreads.

For a total treat, top of diner with a dish of zabaglione.

Twain Hart’s The Rock is that dreamy winter retreat that everyone craves when the weather outside is frightful. Think German hunting lodge meets log cabin. The big rock fireplace is a magnet. The elevation at Twain Harte is 3,648 ft. Yes, baby, it’s cold outside.

There’s plenty to choose from on the menu but my favorite is the Smoke House Sampler. Think ample portions of smoked brisket, chicken, baby back ribs and Andouille sausage. The portions are more than ample. In the beginning you won’t want to share, but will ultimately have to. Add to this dressings, sauces and desserts are homemade at The Rock.

Checking out new restaurants is always fun. In 2012 two great ones opened both in Jackson: Stanley’s Steakhouse in the National Hotel and Lone Wolf at the Rancheria. Both are elegant, special occasion places. Charles and I enjoyed Christmas dinner at Stanley’s with two other couples.

I love to have breakfast at Frank’s in Mokelumne Hill(try their chorizo sausage with fried egg or Greek omelette. When Charles and I want really good pizza we go to Pizza Plus in Sutter Creek. For fish we like the Pelican’s Roost in Jackson. For a great burger, it Standard Pour in Sonora. For just plain reliably food (and drinks) we like Mel & Fay’s.

It’s sad to think of some of the great restaurants that closed their doors in 2012. Remember TeaEra? The Dorrington? The Dancing Bear?

It’s up to us to see that there are no more casualties. Happy New Year Ho! Ho! Ho! And keep sharing your favorites.