Foothill Flavors 750 word

Grounds for Comment in Murphys
by Antoinette May

Two years ago I wrote about lunch at Grounds and called it a Goldilocks kind of place. It seemed then that everything at the Murphys bistro was “just right.”

Now, having recently tried dinner there, I’m not so sure. Upon consideration, I’d say that Goldi and the bear family might easily agree to disagree.

Seated as I was at the very back of a long, shoebox shaped room, I stared directly at the wine wrack.

To be fair, it’s an impressive sight. Floor to ceiling, the width of the room. Impressive, but not exactly inspiring. Aside from the view at that particular table, I like the sleek, state-of- the-art décor at Grounds. Lots of chrome highlighting glossy black furniture and mirrors that reflect the action.

Though the restaurant was not busy when we first arrived, it seemed a long time before anyone came to take our orders and, once they were placed, an even longer time for our libations to arrive.

I must say though that once they came, they were perfect. Of course, Charles is easy to please. He always orders a scotch over ice. How could anyone go wrong with that? The price was $9.

My choice—a martini—is a lot more challenging. You can’t imagine the hair tonic that some bar tenders pass off for martinis!

Any way, this was an excellent one, a cocktail meant to be savored. ($7) Martinis are before dinner drinks. They neither compliment food nor are complimented by it. So, imagine my dismay when the salads arrived

before I’d taken my third sip.

My husband, Charles, had ordered a wedge of iceberg lettuce with house made blue cheese dressing ($9). He loved it. But then, he’s a fast drinker and was ready to eat.

My own salad was as satisfying in its way as the martini. Crisp romaine with Caesar dressing, garlic croutons and lots of anchovies. Caesar salad is $8 at Grounds but you can order a half Caesar for $7. The size was just right for me.

I was just settling into it when my mussels arrived. Trying to find room for everything on the postage stamp table was disconcerting, besides I felt rushed. Sometimes service can be a little too good for its own good. This was one of those times.

Our waitress, Cyndi Nordvik, was pretty and pleasant. The food was ready and she brought it right away, but something ought to be done somewhere on the Grounds food delivery chain to regulate timing.

Happily, Grounds has an exciting menu. Charles and I had a hard deciding just which entrée to choose. Charles picked the cioppino at $23. It was a savory concoction of mussels, fresh bay scallops, prawns and littleneck clams in white wine, fresh garlic and marinara. Cioppino usually comes in a big bowl. This serving was a little short of that.

My own choice was steamed mussels in chardonnay with sweet butter, cracked pepper, fresh basil, and garlic. ($19) The mussels were fresh and tender, the sauce tasty but both seemed overwhelmed by towering mounds of sweet potato fries. Enough already.

With

dinner, I had a glass of a very pleasant champagne-wine mix, the evening’s drink special ($8). Charles had Frog’s Leap pinot grigio. ($7) An excellent choice.

For dessert we split an out of this world raspberry cheese cake. ($4.95)

By the time we’d finished, the restaurant was full. No doubt about it, Grounds is a happening place, a popular venue for breakfast, lunch and, most recently, dinner.

Just now, I googled Grounds to see what other diners had to say. The reviews were mixed. One vowed she would never return. (“This place is forgettable. Oh, and the girl who served the drinks acted like she really hated her job.”)

Another raved about the “seriously good” bleu cheese appetizer and the pork chop over mashed potatoes. (“Holy cow, one the best chops in my life!”)

What can I add to that? Charles and I felt that we’d paid an A plus price for a B dinner. But perhaps that’s to be expected in a boutique town like Murphys.

Go check it out for yourselves and let me hear what you think.

VITALS: Grounds is located at 402 Main St. Murphys. Phone: 728-8663. Open daily for breakfast and lunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Closed Mondays for dinner. Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 9, Sundays from 5 to 8. Reservations highly recommended in the evenings. Credit cards accepted.

PICTURES

The interior of the Grounds in Murphys is lively.

Cioppino is a mainstay of the Grounds menu.

Cyndi Nordvik is a charming addition to the Grounds staff.