Hillbillies Gets Off to a Happy, Hopeful Start

By Antoinette May Herndon

There is nothing, but nothing, that a dining columnist appreciates more than feed back. With three counties to cover, the “where to eat” assignment often presents a challenge. “What’s new?” I mutter into my computer. Or, “Am I missing something?”

Having just said that, you can imagine how delighted I was to receive an email from Darrell and Lynn Russ of Arnold. The Russes had exciting tidings to share.

Something different and distinctive has been added to the dining choices in Murphys, they told me. Hillbillies, the new kid on the block, is a cute and lively place to not only start the day but end it.

Well, of course, Charles and I had to check this one out. First off, we discovered, that breakfast is absolutely great at Hillbillies. The ambience instantly captured us. Just think: Country music playing in the background. An old saddle hanging over the railing as you enter. The walls covered with an assortment of ox collars, frying pans and farming tools. A sign admonishes: “Cowgirls keep their calves together.” Clearly someone around Hillbillies has a sense of humour.

For guests who would also like a little intimacy, there’s even a covered wagon with a dining table inside. I thought the idea rather romantic. Hillbillies has only been open seven months, but I’m willing to bet plenty of proposals will be engendered in that cosy little retreat. (Not to mention propositions.)

Breakfast is a high point at Hillbillies.

Just consider the three scrambles: Country Scramble ($8.95) country sausage patty with scrambled eggs on grilled sourdough topped with gravy and cheese; Sunrise Scramble ($7.95) minced ham and scrambled eggs on grilled sourdough topped with tomato slices and cheese; or Benedict Scramble, ($9.95) ham and two scrambled eggs on a grilled English muffin topped with hollandaise sauce.

Of course that’s not to say that you can’t also choose from a variety of omelettes and pancakes, or that “Hillbillies ranch hands” can’t sink their teeth into rib eye steaks sided with eggs, hash browns, biscuits and gravy.

When it comes to lunch, a bowl of Down Home Chili at Hillbillies ($5.95) is a favourite. Or, you could try just a cup ($3.95) with say a Cobb, Caesar, Tuna, or Tri-tip Salad, all priced at $9.95.

I wouldn’t say that Hillbillies—at least at this point—aims to be a dinner house. For one thing, they close at 7. But dinner was what we wanted on a recent Saturday night, so we rolled up at 6:30 and settled in to enjoy the music and atmosphere.

What followed was a mixed experience.

Charles described his liver and onions ($9.95) as “just like Mother used to make.” This, unfortunately, was not meant as an accolade.

One of the St. Louis Ribs ($15.95) was enough for me. My loss turned out to be a true bonanza for Chloe, our dog. She has right the jaws for those ribs.

This is a worst and best story. You just heard the worst part. The best is that the dinner included potatoes cooked to order,

excellent veggies and a choice of soup or salad. I liked my salad very much. In fact it was elegant! Luscious big mushrooms and a tasty blue cheese dressing.

Charles chose French onion soup and found it flavoursome. We were both delighted with Jessia Pacheco, our server. Jessia has been at Hillbillies just one month and loves her job. It’s fun to be around someone like that.

Another plus for Hillbillies is their wine selection. How can you resist wines from an outfit that calls itself “Masked Rider”? I liked their Gunsmoke Red—aromas and flavours of fresh fruit, plums, black currant, herbs, expresso notes and touches of earth—so well that I had two glasses at $5.50 a piece. I did wonder though—but was afraid to ask—what they meant by “touches of earth.”

Hillbillies is a happy, cheery place with very reasonable prices and generous servings. It’s new—only eight months old—and seems destined to draw a loyal following.

Breakfast and lunch are already off and rolling. Dinner will improve, I know, because the ambience and enthusiasm are already in place. It can only get better and better.

VITALS: Hillbillies, at 55, Highway 4, Murphys, is open from 7 a.m. until 7 p.m. Phone: 728-9300. Credit cards accepted.

amherndon@sierralodestar.com

PICTURES

Jessia Pacheco is a delightful addition to Hillbillies

Interiors:

Whimsy is the word for the décor at Hillbillies

A sense of fun livens a meal at Hillbillies.