Foothill Flavors

By Antoinette May Herndon

No host dinners are so darn complicated, don’t you think?

We’d started out a peaceful party of five that quickly doubled to ten. Ten individualists. Where to go? What would please everyone? Is pleasing everyone even possible in this world?

Better not to go all existential about it, I told myself, opting instead for enlightened self-interest. Of course, that’s just another way of saying: “When in doubt, please yourself, Antoinette.”

I would make the command decision. Somebody has to do the choosing. Right? Besides, I’d been wanting to check out J&D’s Steakhouse in Sutter Creek for some time. Let’s go, gang!

It took four cars to get us there, but in fairly short order the ten of us descended on J& D’s en masse. We were in a festive mood. All of us had been involved in a writing conference that had ended earlier that day. Hearts fluttering, we’d waded through 50 evaluations of the event. Whew! It appeared we’d actually done something right. Now we wanted to part---yyy!

And J&D’s looked like just the place for it. Maybe some of you remember this restaurant in its former incarnation as Caff’e Via D’Oro. If so, you’ll be as surprised as I was to see that the look has shifted from continental formality to American sports bar. I loved the old D’Oro, Charles and I had gone there often, but had to admit that J&D’s new ambience was very inviting.

What a relief! Our party included two of the conference biggies who’d flown in specially for the event. You know, like I’d called in a favor. Naturally, I wanted

them to go home very happy. Though J&D’s was busy that Sunday night, co-owner Daniel Bruen and his crew were able to quickly pull some tables together to accommodate us all. Soon we had settled in and were ready to order drinks.

They came from the same beautiful old bar that I remembered but now there are four 40” flat screen TVs behind it. Lots of sports action that night but happily the sound was turned off. What we did hear was well modulated 80s music.

Another change from the old D’ Oro days is that the prices are considerably lower. I’m guessing that J&D’s will be a place that people visit often. Drinks are not only good (a perfect martini for me) but reasonably priced. Scotch from the “well” is $4, well gin, $5, and a generous glass of Noceto Sangiovese, $8.

I sat between Kevin who ordered his steak well done and Lucy who requested medium rare. I wanted mine super rare. Steaks at J&D’s also have a choice of toppings. Kevin and I chose horseradish, Lucy pan seared cherry tomatoes. What a challenge for Daniel! Imagine three steaks in a row, three customers pretty serious about their meat.

He rose to the occasion with flying colors. Soon we were three happy campers. The steaks, each $18.95, were done to perfection. But it was more than “merely” being cooked to request. The meat itself was excellent. These were flat irons, tender and moist with J&D’s signature rub.

Across from us and down the table others were raving about their steaks too, but there was also talk of fabulous grilled salmon filets with honey mustard glaze ($16.99) and mixed grill skewers of prawns, steak, and

chicken intertwined with pineapple, mushrooms and red peppers ($17.99).

All the entrees came with a choice of soup or salad. There were eight takers for the salad. All seemed delighted with their assorted dressings. I was the hold out who chose New England clam chowder. Lucky me! It was loaded with succulent clams. Charles opted for an extra, iceberg lettuce salad with oil and vinegar. ($3)

Daniel Bruen, attentive but not intrusive, quick, intuitive and efficient, was the unsung hero of the evening. Groups are always a challenge; they invariably come with an agenda of one kind or another that extends beyond food. Ours was scattered, difficult for a waiter to coordinate. Imagine six separate dinner check! We were a little high, a little full of ourselves. We’d come together that weekend for a purpose, had worked hard, and now were celebrating ourselves and each other. That night after dinner we’d be going our separate ways. Michael Arkin, a keynote speaker, was headed off to Spain. Tom Johnson, our computer whiz, was returning to Santa Fe. It’ll be May, 2011 before some of us meet again, but you can be certain that same time next year we’ll celebrate again at J&B’s.

VITALS: Daniel Bruen and his partner, James Swink, celebrated their first year at J&D’s Steakhouse May 15. The restaurant is located at 36 Main St., Sutter Creek. They’re open for dinner from Wednesday through Monday from 5 on. Phone: 267-0535. Reservations advisable. Credit cards accepted.

PICTURES

Daniel Bruen is used to helping guests celebrate. (camera picture).

Daniel Bruen spreads cheer at J&D’s