Foothill Flavors

‘Wonderful new place in Murphys’ is a winner

By Antoinette May Herndon

It was our big 10-oh! and Charles and I wanted to start the day right. Anniversaries are special, don’t you think? Ours contained surprise elements for some; but, hopefully, the 10th year that Aug. 17 rolled around stopped finger waggers dead-on. (They said it couldn’t be done, etc. Mountain man, city chick Tsk tsk!)

I suppose marriage was a culture shock for us both. Charles is the strong, silent type. No one imagined that he’d become “master of the house” in the rollicking Les Mis tradition. Yet, truth be told, our home has evolved into a kind of inn. In the beginning people came up here from the Bay Area out of curiosity. (“What has Toni gotten herself into?”) They’ve returned again and again, mainly because it’s so awfully pretty up here.

For myself, after 10 years, I still haven’t gotten quite used to the 13 sweeping curves that must be navigated every time I go to a grocery store. Highway 49 is gorgeous, breathtaking, in fact. Maybe a little too breathtaking. If I had three wishes, they’d center around a mini mart in Mokelumne Hill.

Getting back to anniversaries, they call for celebrations. Right? Yes, yes, of course, we’d planned a special dinner at Taste, but that was hours away. Breakfast establishes the tone for the whole day, don’t you think? We wanted things to be special right from the start. The question was, where to go?

For the better part of a year (ever since the Magnolia Cafe opened on Jan. 6) readers have been emailing me about the restaurant, “that wonderful new place in Murphys.”

When I Googled Magnolia myself, I found nothing but raves. Now that is unusual. No one with an axe to grind. Not a single snippy server, botched order or overdone entrée. Wow!

Now doesn’t doesn’t such a paragon place sound like the perfect venue to begin an anniversary celebration? And—I’m so happy to tell you—the Magnolia Café turned out to be just that.

Devon Shires is the 23-year-old master mind behind this delightful and innovative addition to the foothills culinary scene. Slim and pretty, her bright blond hair anchored in a knot, Devon is anywhere and everywhere at the Magnolia Cafe. Scoping out new recipes, welcoming guests, serving specials and finally scouring pots. She does it all.

A local girl, Devon worked in restaurants and catered while earning a bachelor’s degree in Spanish and minors in psychology and sociology from UC Davis plus pursuing a culinary arts education at the Cordon Bleu in Sacramento.

“I know it’s an odd mix,” she acknowledged to me, “I went through college hoping to find myself, to fulfill my passion through a course, a professor, or some piece of ancient Spanish literature. Surely, I thought, one of them would show me the light.”

Eventually Devon realized that the passion for which she’d been searching had been right there all the time. “I’ve always had an unseemly love of food,” she admitted. “While other kids came home from kindergarten to watch ‘Sesame Street,’ I studied Julia Childs and Jacque Pepin.”

Devon sees herself as an entrepreneur. “I’m beginning fresh with what I hope will prove to be both great recipes and a great concept,” she told me, adding: “I hope to fill a void that

has been missing in Murphys, a little international cuisine with home cooked roots; great customer service, great food and an amazing atmosphere.”

Judging from my own experience, Devon is off to a flying start. The Magnolia Cafe with its high steepled ceilings, unframed wilderness photos and large fireplace is immediately inviting. The ambience immediately invites confidence. More importantly, the menu begs exploration.

Sitting down to our anniversary breakfast, Charles and I faced some tough choices. It was a big deal decision but Charles eventually picked cornmeal griddle cakes served with honey and blackberry butter ($8) along with a side of bacon, ($1.50). He was one happy guy.

Ever the adventurer, I chose the chorizo-egg torta ($7.50 which consisted of turkey chorizo, srambled eggs, avocado, cumin creama and sharp cheddar on a roll. It was really fantastic. If you have never tried chorizo sausage or think you don’t like it, try Devon’s concoction. I can’t wait to go back. And, believe me, I won’t wait another ten years!

On the basis of our first experience at the Magnolia Café, I’d say that any morning there could be a celebration in itself.

VITALS: The Magnolia Cafe, 64 Mitchler St., (just off Highway 4) Murphys. Phone: 728-2186. Hours: Breakfast, 7 a.m. to 11 a. m; lunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Thursday through Monday. Sunday brunch from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m., breakfast and lunch menus, plus brunch specials. Credit cards accepted.

Pictures: A cathedral ceiling adds charm to the Magnolia Café in Murphys.

Owner-chef Devon Shires is the master mind behind the Magnolia Café’s early success.

Waiter Nate Frazier was off and running on his first day at the Magnolia Café in Murphys.