Foothill Flavors

A Foreign Affair in Jackson

By Antoinette May Herndon

Things are not what they seem at Pelican’s Roost. Once you discover the tiny bistro tucked away in the Jackson Creek Shopping Center, you immediately think, “Okay, one more fish and chips place.”

You would hardly think otherwise what with the rough wharf planking walls covered with fishnets and shells. The small wooden tables and spindle chairs are appropriately nautical, too. Even the menu under the glass-topped table looks pretty standard.

But guess again. Just take a look at the specials posted on the chalk board at the back.

Surprise! Surprise! Pelican’s Roost offers something a lot more exotic than chips and burgers. I’m here to tell you, this small restaurant is a real gem, a true boon to the Foothills. Really stretch you imagination and think Japanese cuisine.

When Winston Sooja with his wife, Sue, moved to Jackson from the Bay Area seven years ago, he came with a wealth of experience as a Japanese chef. Consider a history with the famous Benihana where the elegance and intricacies of ethnic cookery blend with dazzling chef performances.

No, Winston does not juggle knives at the table in his Jackson bistro but he could do that stunning (if a bit unnerving) number if a customer was up for the experience. He demonstrated that kind of showmanship with

great aplomb for some thirty years.

Sue Sooja, who originally hails from Korea, explains: “When we moved here we wanted to open a restaurant of our own. Pelican’s Roost was for sale. People had grown used to it as a fish house. Why rock the boat?”

Winston knew he could do fish and was and is dedicated to its flavour and freshness. (To insure top quality, he drives every other day to the fish market in Sacramento.) Winston was also concerned that Japanese food might be a little too exotic for the Foothills.

When he discovered that most people didn’t even know what tempura was, Winston decided to ease in gradually, keep the old Pelican’s Roost menu and décor but tuck in a few of his native favourites and serve them in the classic Japanese bento box (a pretty lacquer tray with separate sections for each culinary offering).

Winston does not prepare and cook his food at the customer’s table as he once did at Benihana, but you can always catch glimpses of him at work in the restaurant’s open kitchen.

The wait staff at Pelican’s Roost consists of Sue. It’s a two person operation that works very well.

Charles and I go back again and again, the yummy cooking smells just draw us in. I invariably select the bento box. Of the numerous fish choices offered, I generally pick calamari and prawns tempura. ($9.95).

Tempura is a light batter made of cold water and soft wheat

flour mixed in small batches with chop sticks (naturally) for only a few seconds, leaving lumps in the mixture that result in a crisp and fluffy structure when cooked.

Sharing the bento box are fluffy rice, veggies, two tangy dipping sauces, and a crisp green salad with excellent bleu cheese dressing.

Charles, perhaps swayed by the nautical art all around us, selected the traditional fish and chips. ($9.49). This turned out to be two pieces of cod and two prawns. (Very fresh and tasty.) Personally, I don’t find chips a Pelican’s Roost highlight and suggest a rice substitute. The rice there is unusually fluffy and good.

We highlighted our dinner with warm sake, so good on a cold night. $3.50)

Portions at Pelican’s Roost are generous. I’m always curious about the tempura ice cream but never quite have room for it.

Maybe next time. And I know “next time” will be soon.

VITALS: Pelican’s Roost, 535 Hwy 49, Suite 3 (the Jackson Creek Shopping Center) Jackson. Phone; 223-5594. Hours: 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Closed Sundays. Pelican’s Roost also offers take out. Credit cards accepted. amherndon@sierralodestar.com

Pictures:

Sue Sooja is a cheerful hostess- server at Pelican’s Roost.

The exotic bento box is a Pelican’s Roost trademark.

The interior of Pelican’s Roost is deceptively nautical,

Sue and Winston Sooja are the a success story at Pelican’s Roost.