The Exotic East: Jackson Style

By Antoinette May Herndon

‘Twas the Saturday night before Christmas. . . Remember Christmas? It came and went a few days ago. But this column is about before Christmas.

The Saturday before Christmas is supposed to be kind of festive, don’t you think? Charles and I were at loose ends and wanted to do something fun that night.

“You like Vietnamese food,” he reminded me. “I hear there’s a new Viet restaurant at the Jackson Rancheria.”

Well, I do like Vietnamese food and the Rancheria did seem to fit a loosed definition of fun.

Once an aficionado of casinos, I had—in my salad days—possessed that magic thing called beginner’s luck. All I needed to do was lean over a pretty green crap table and toss those cute little dice. Why did people work in Nevada when gambling was so easy?

It never occurred to me to double up on myself, I don’t think I even know then what double up meant. But wiser people did and benefited from my good fortune. Once Frank Sinatra tossed me a $20 chip as a thank you. It seemed like a lot of money to me then, but was nothing compared to what he had won.

After a few months my lucky streak evaporated as mysteriously as it had appeared. Let me tell you, I’m not a good loser. That marked the end of my sporting life.

In the past 30 years, I’ve may been in and out of a casino possibly four times. But why not check out Pho Bac Hoa, Charles suggested, the Rancheria’s

new kid on the block? The idea seemed exciting when he suggested it. Not quite so exciting as we set out into that rainy night.

Dalton Road, which leads to the Rancheria is dark, windy and narrow—not particularly driver friendly. I wondered if any one would even be at the casino. Guess again. The huge—really huge—multi-level parking garage at the top of the hill was nearly full.

From there it took many signs to lead us out of the garage and down the path to the casino entrance. I wondered whether we would we ever find our way back again. Could we ever be reunited with our car? It was best not to think about it. This was supposed to be a fun evening.

Once inside the casino, it was a fresh challenge to find Pho Bac Hoa, a small cafeteria. We found the atmosphere there much like that of an airport café. Clearly, people don’t go to casinos to eat, but sooner or later they have to. Pho Bac Hoa exists to accommodate them.

The eatery features traditional noodle soup with side dishes plus charbroiled meats served over steamed rice or vermicelli noodles. Lots of Asian Americans eat there. Probably a good sign.

Communication challenges with the servers also add to the exotic east experience. Though we ordered from a wall menu, both Charles’s plate and my own ended up with surprises.

We had each wanted cups of won ton soup but ended up with one very large bowl with one spoon. ($5) It’s a good thing we know each other.

I wanted grilled shrimp with

beef but just got beef ($8.75)—way too chewy for me. I also asked for vermicelli noodles but got rice. The veggies were good though and the salad crisp, green and well laced with cilantro.

Charles fared better with his grilled shrimp. ($7.75) with rice, vegetables and salad.

We chose Young Coconut Juice ($2.75) for our beverage. It’s bland, difficult to describe. Coke or ice tea might be a better choice.

What can I say about Pho Bac Hoa? It’s certainly reasonable. Imagine not paying any tax! The self service is strictly luck of the draw. No need to tip;

Sitting, as we did, facing onto the main thoroughfare was interesting. The whole world seemed to pass briskly by on its way to or from the slots. Some where a sound track played “Silent Night” but got all the way to the “Sleeeeep in heavenlyyyyyy peace” before I realized what I was listening to. Ho deliciously unPC. Guess Charles and I were having a cool Yule after al.

No, we didn’t gamble, but still enjoyed a bit of luck. We found our way back to the car.

VITALS: Pho Bac Hoa Viet is in the Main Street Food Court of the Jackson Rancheria. 12222 New York Ranch Road, Jackson. Phone: 822-WINN Court. It’s open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 6 a.m. No tax charged or alcohol served. Credit cards accepted.

amherndon@sierralodestar.com

Picitures

Tasty offerings at Pho Bac Hoa

Pho Bac Hoa is a popular venue at the Rancheria