Foothill Flavors 861 words

In Twain Harte: A Restaurant that Really Rocks

By Antoinette May Herndon

Have you heard of The Rock? If you live in Tuolomne County, that answer has to be “yes.” A very positive Yessssssssss! (Like Mike Douglas in “Wall Street.” Most likely you go there all the time.

But for the rest of us, The Rock is a kind of hidden treasure.

The cozy retreat is a breakfast, lunch and dinner house located in tiny Twain Harte. The other evening Charles and I had dinner there. I’d just whipped out my notebook and begun jotting down impressions when a woman at the next table leaned over.

“Are you writing about this restaurant?” she asked. “I hope so,” she continued before I could say anything. “It’s time someone did. I don’t know what I would do without The Rock. There are days when my husband and I have both breakfast and dinner here. We simply love the food. Everything is delicious. Some of my favorites are the breakfast sandwich, pancakes, hamburgers—”

She went on and on. But really I didn’t blame her. The Rock is special. In fact the whole surrounding town of Twain Harte is special. The village of some 2000 has a mystique all its own --part history, part geography, part natural charisma. Summer, winter or fall, it’s always fun to go there.

The area’s first inhabitants were Mi-wuk Indians who built their homes or “oochums” from tree limbs and bark and wove fine baskets from the willows that grew near the lake.

As most know, the discovery of gold in 1849 brought thousands of non-native people to the foothills. Very soon apple and pear orchards, lumber mills and cattle ranches sprang up around the Indian enclave at “the rock, ” a sweeping expanse of granite

next to what is now Twain Harte Lake Dam.

The village that would become Twain Hart began to take shape in 1861 when a road was constructed over Sonora Pass that linked the bustling commercial colony of Sonora with the rich mining town of Aurora. To defray the constructions costs a toll gate was installed.

It remained for Keturah C. Wood to subdivide the area in 1924. He named it after the Gold Rush Country’s literary stars, Mark Twain and Bret Harte.

The Twain Harte Dam adjacent to “the rock” was finished and dedicated five years later on July 4. As part of the celebration, the Indians held their last pow-pow on the lake.

That last part of the story seems sad to me, so we’ll get right back to the restaurant which is lively and fun. The Rock’s decor is eclectic: log cabin meets German hunting lodge with a little sports bar and a lot of kitsch thrown in. I love the big rock fireplace especially in winter. The elevation in Twain Harte is 3,648 ft. Yes, baby, it’s cold outside!

Jim and Diane Dunigan, who bought the twenty-year-old restaurant ten years ago have devised an exciting menu. The woman at the next table who’d engaged me in conversation in the first place confided that the dazzling array of food possibilities invariably gives her an anxiety attack. Choices! Choices. Pressure.

Better have a drink first, Charles and I decided. The Rock does not have a cocktail bar but has extensive beer and wine selections. Their are 16 different kinds of beer on tap. Charles enjoyed a mug of Newcastle, thick and dark. ($3.50) I was quite happy with the house merlot for the same price.

There really is a lot to choose from on the menu. Mango Fried Prawns, for instance, at $16.95 or Ribeye Steak for $20.95.

Charles made it easy on himself by ordering the special. It was meatloaf that night served with garlic mashed potatoes. ($10.95)

I was feeling extra frisky that night and dove head first into “amazingness.” I went for the Smokehouse Sampler. It was divine, but also an awful lot to eat. Imagine: ample portions of smoked brisket, chicken, baby back ribs and Andouille sausage. ($21.95)

The presentation was enough for three people and our pretty waitress, Ashley Page, confided that frequently that patrons rarely order it on their own. As many as three diners can easily split it and go home feeling full. I did more than my share that night and took the rest home. The next night Charles and I feasted well on leftovers. None of it went into the dog dish. All poor Chloe got were rib bones.

All entrees at The Rock are cooked to order. They come with soup or salad, veggies, and a choice of rice pilaf, mashed garlic potatoes or baked potato. Dressings, sauces and desserts are homemade. Charles had a huge slice of chocolate cake ($5.95). I mean HUGE. It may be the best I’ve ever tasted. (He allowed me a bite.)

The portions are very generous at The Rock. Expect to be overwhelmed. This place is a diet buster, but sometimes we deserve a treat. Don’t you think?

VITALS: The Rock is located at 23068 Fuller Rd, Twain Harte. Phone: 585- 2080. www.rockoftwainharte.com Hours: Monday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Tuesday through Thursday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. Credit cards accepted.

Pictures:

Portions are more than ample at Twain Harte’s The Rock

The interior of The Rock in Twain Harte is warm, friendly and eclectic.

Ashley Page is a dynamic asset to The Rock in Twain Harte