Tambien, ‘son’ of Andrae

By Antoinette May Herndon

For the last couple of years people have been talking almost in whispers about things they bought, or a business they frequented—or tried to frequent. There really seemed no other place to obtain the perfect cheese, bread, rolls, croissants, or even sandwiches.

“I bought it at Andrae’s the few lucky ones would say while others clustered around sighing appreciatively, faces wistful, sad with longing or sometimes slightly red with envy or even anger. “Why her and not me?” One could almost hear them say to themselves or to some other sorry soul.

The fact is, there’s quite an investment of time, thought and energy involved in getting to Andrae’s. It’s a long, long trail a-winding to find that purveyor of your dreams. The bakery is way off the hell and gone in Amador City, the smallest unincorporated town in the southern foothills. Now, Amador City is a charming place to visit, go antiquing maybe, but an awfully long way to go on a market run.

And even those who’ve made the trip sometimes came back empty handed. They’d arrived too early or too late or on the wrong day; their faces were sad from the disappointment of having been turned away.

Well, no more of that! The famed Andrae’s is closed now but only for renovations. New things will be happening early in October. The same wonderful Andrae’s will be open again with longer hours and an expanded menu.

Now here’s some even better news. Andrae’s

has had a baby! Well sort of . . . Tambien, meaning “me too,” is an authentic Mexican restaurant on top of French Bar Road in Jackson.

Matt and Kimberly Andrae launched their new addition in February with the objective of being a true taqueria (taco shop). For those of us who spent our barefoot years in Mexico and even some who haven’t, the idea of an authentic taqueria is immensely appealing.

It isn’t that the area doesn’t have some fine Mexican restaurants. It does. (I think of Jose’s immediately.) But a taqueria is something else entirely. They’re modern, casual and very fresh—often with food made to order on the spot.

“We change our sauces every day,” says Kimi Gallagher, Tambien’s general manager explains. “The quesadillas are made fresh at the bakery.” (No wonder they’re so good.)

Albert Garcia, the kitchen manager is always experimenting with new ideas and preparations. “I and the rest of the staff have had to learn to handle the heat that comes out of his kitchen,” Gallagher laughs.

Tambien is small, bright and airy. The walls are painted a warm maize. Dishes are made to order and guests help themselves from a spice bar that includes salsa fresca, roasted habenerno, super hot. and rockin’ red. Lively guitar music plays in the background.

On a recent Saturday night Charles and I decided to check out Tambien. I’m a gringa from way back, a try-anything-once-girl who decided she knew enough to write a guidebooks

to Mexico. (“Mexico For Lovers” and “Yucatan: A Guide to the Land of Maya Mysteries.” Believe me, I know my way around a taqueria. Tambien definitely gets the Azul Ribbon award.

Yucatan is my favorite part of a wonderful city so I immediately chose the Yucatan pulled pork (a house specialty with subtle flavors of spice and fruit) for the meat choice in my Street Taco. The soft corn tortilla also enfolded onions and cilantro. When that arrived, I took my plate and sashayed up to the spice bar to liven things up exactly to my taste. (7.95)

A compliment was the Tambien Slaw, crisp, green and well laced with pineapple- jalapeno dressing with cilantro. Que bien! ($1.95)

Charles chose a traditional Quesadilla, house made corn masa turnovers, stuffed with jack cheese and roasted poblano peppers, fried and then served with tambien slaw ($5.50)

Naturally, we drank frosty mugs of Negra Modelo, $2 a piece.

Charles and I left knowing that we’d return pronto.

VITALS: Tambien is located at 250 French Bar Road, Jackson. Phone: 267-1122. Open: Wednesday and Thursdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Fridays and Saturday from ll a.m. to 9. p.m. Watch for Andrae’s grand re-opening early October in Amador City.

amherndon@sierralodestar.com

PICTURES

The exterior of Tambien is simple but inviting.

Kimi Gallagher welcomes guests at Tambien.

The Tambien’s interior is a tiny slice of Mexicana.