If it’s A Question of Taste—Go For It

By Antoinette May Herndon

Once in awhile you want or need to make a special person know just how special he or she really is.

That’s one scenario. Here’s another:

Once in awhile you and your partner want to make each other feel really special.

There really isn’t a better place to realize either objective than Plymouth’s no longer secret treasure, Taste.

Charles and I have been sneaking off to indulge ourselves at Taste ever since it opened three years ago. In those early days going to this sophisticated bistro was a little like belonging to a private club.

For one thing, just entering Taste was such a total surprise, a startling “through the looking glass experience.” Plymouth is a time-warp, the town that time forgot. Maybe, “town” is an over statement, it’s more like one street.

Even after three years of fairly frequent dining at Taste, there is still something a little unreal about this amazing eatery. With its simple frame exterior, Taste looks just like its century-old neighbors.

Surprise! Brace yourself, you are about to go from the ordinary to the urbane. One tug on the restaurant’s fork-shaped door handle transports you to another world.

Prepare to be swept into Craftsman Central, an Art Deco paradise—wood-plank floors, ochre-hued walls, golden light and dark wood furniture. The ambience is sleek, suave, but also warm and friendly.

Perhaps you recall Taste’s owners, Mark and Tracey Berkner, from their days at Volcano’s St. George Hotel. In their fabulous

new incarnation, Tracey manages the restaurant while Mark cooks up a storm in the kitchen.

Backed by a splendid staff, the couple offers the kind of polished food and wine service that would be perfectly at ease on Union Square, in Mayfair, or on the Champs Elysees. Presentations, always gorgeous, are cooked to perfection.

That being said, you can understand why Taste was the first destination that came to mind when Charles and I recently planned a dinner for a small but sophisticated covey of out of towners that included one very special “birthday boy.”

Kevin is a best friend and mentor; his celebration had to be as singular as he. I think Kevin will agree that it truly was.

There were five of us present, long time friends and colleagues. As hostess, it felt good to just kick back and enjoy myself, confidant that the evening ahead would be warm and wonderful for everyone, a dining affair to remember.

It all began with a round of cigars—Mushroom Cigars (crimini, shitake, and oyster) wrapped in phyllo dough. ($9.50). They were “only” fantastic.

Kevin’s entrée choice was Grilled Colorado Rack of Lamb—fava bean hash, cipollini onion, Spanish chorizo sauce, Bloomsdale spinach, and green garlic puree. ($37). A birthday wish come true.

Lovely Lucy, who writes “how to” relationship guides and erotic stories, indulged herself with the Fennel Coriander Crusted Ahi—creamy black beans, avocado mousse, with a cilantro mint salad. ($29).

Brent, who has just completed a Gold Rush novel centered in—would you believe, Mokelumne Hill—dug into an Angus New York Steak.

Served with it were heirloom tomatoes, chantrelles, fried manchego and summer truffles. ($33.50).

Charles, epicurean that he is, selected Roasted Vermont Quail served with plum pecan chutney, sautéed endive, pancetta and grilled wheat bread. ($28) He was delighted and refused to share even a bite with anyone.

My own choice was a long time favorite: Seared Duck Breast with grilled prosciutto wrapped treviso, red wine risotto cake, and goat cheese stuffed figs with Del Rio honey. What difference do calories make? Mine is a sweeping passionate love. How can you fight that? And why would you even try? ($26).

For the grand finale, the five of us plunged our forks into Taste’s signature Chocolate Fix. Imagine, if you will: molten chocolate cake, chocolate mousse and Valhrona chocolate gelato. A sin! But what can I say? Some of us are weak.

VITALS: Taste, 9402 Main St., Plymouth, 245-3463. Open Monday, Thursday and Friday from 5 to 9 p.m., Saturday from 4:30 p.m. to 9:30, and Sunday from 4:30 p.m. to 9. Taste packs in crowds every night, so make your reservations early. Credit cards accepted. Here’s an additional suggestion: Taste’s wine list showcases excellent local foothill wines as well as an impressive collection of international selections. The wine service is top notch, but if you want a cocktail first you’ll have to go elsewhere.

Charles and I have taken to stopping by The Dancing Bear Bar and Grill just a few doors up Main St. for a little pre-dinner libation. It’s a bare bones bar but the martinis are good and well chilled and the scotch is excellent.

amherndon@sierralodestar.com