Foothill Flavors

A Second look at Bob-b-cue

A little over a week ago Charles and I attended an event that was both a grand opening and a reopening. Perhaps you could call it a reinvention. Though Roxanne and John Herzig still own and manage the bar of “the Wendell’s building” in Mokelumne Hill, the restaurant is now a separate operation known as Bob-B-Que.

We went to the opening with high expectations. Having always loved Wendell’s, both its food and its staff, we had fond associations with the place. When the restaurant closed a year ago last Christmas, ostensibly for the holidays, we eagerly awaited the scheduled reopening in January 2009. It never happened.

The closing seemed a sad loss for many.

So, you can imagine that we were ready to set off a few sparklers of our own when Bobby Souza began tossing around packages of ribs at Mokelumne Hill’s July 4th parade. It was all by way of an announcement that the restaurant was back in business. July 10 was to be its grand opening.

We immediately called for reservations and began counting the days. Clearly we were not alone. If you happened to read this column last week or were unfortunate enough to be at Bob-B-Cue yourself, you know the place was a mob scene.

Bob-B-Cue was

literally taken over by two private parties—that should have been a pre -party. Instead, there simply was not room for the overflow. If this was the restaurant’s success story, it went with a price tag.

People waited hours for seats then more hours for service. Suffice it to say that when the food came, it was underwhelming. It was a disappointment that I shared with anyone up for reading this column.

But, if you recall, I did promise to return. On a recent Monday night, dragging a reluctant husband who had sworn never to go back, I did just that.

Again let me say, what a difference a day makes! How pleasant it was to be greeted by lovely Claudia Cloward who has served us so often over the years. There we were right back at our favorite table next to a window overlooking hills and valleys. What a spot for sunset watching.

Looking about, I saw other diners smiling, seemingly enjoying their dinners. It was a reassuring sight. Time before, everyone looked mad.

We picked up our menus and settled in. The new Bob-B-Cue is inexpensive, a wonderful place to come with kids. To our left we saw a large family busy with their burgers. They come in a wide variety—totally onion, avocado, surf & turf, as well as the “hangover” with ham and eggs. There’s even something called the burger of death. The prices are reasonable—a 12 oz. with 2 side orders for $12, and a sissy 8 oz. at $8 with two sides.

Sandwiches come in a nice variety too for $8 and $10 depending on the sides.

We had been disappointed before with the smokehouse specialties but decided to try again. Charles picked the hot ticket special, grilled prawns, ($18) and was well satisfied. They came with a side order of sweet potatoes.

I ordered the beef ribs with some trepidation, once burned, twice shy, etc., but was very happy with the outcome. The ribs were enormous with lots of meat on them. They came with two sides for $12. I chose a green salad with an excellent honey mustard dressing and BBQ beans.

If you were among the disgruntled crowd at the opening, or have just heard about the “new” Wendell’s, I urge you to give them another try. An off night is a perfect time to sneak a toe in. Mondays are quiet, low- keyed. The dinners are slow cooked with plenty of careful attention and pretty blond Claudia has enough time for extra service.

Wendell’s was a good restaurant that didn’t get the support it deserved, now it’s back with a new spin. Go, give it a whirl.

VITALS: Bob-B-Cue is open daily from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. Though the cocktail bar is closed Sunday and Monday, wine and beer is available. Corner of Hwy. 49 and Center St., Mokelumn Hill. Phone: 286-1338. Credit cards accepted.

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PICTURES:

Return to Wendell’s/Bob-B-Cue

The interior of the new Bob-B-Cue.